Zegna might have production centres spanning Parma to Mendrisio in Switzerland but its spiritual home is in the Biella Alps in Piedmont, northern Italy. Known as Oasi Zegna, the site includes a vast nature park and the fashion house's original wool mill, established in 1910 and still spinning yarn today. This is where the founder's grandson, Gildo Zegna , meets Monocle to discuss succession at the fast-growing Zegna Group, which now includes US label Thom Browne and the fashion division of Tom Ford, alongside the Zegna label, which has evolved into one of the most prominent players in global luxury menswear.
Gildo, who recently moved on from the role of group CEO to become executive chairman, says that the switch is his way of "stepping up" as he seeks to ensure that the group stays nimble and competitive. Part of this involves developing the retail and customer experience through initiatives such as Salotto Zegna (exclusive shopping areas for one-to-one experiences) and the travelling, club-like Villa Zegna concept (extended events providing an immersive, "multisensory exploration" of the brand). The latter has touched down in cities from Miami to Shanghai. With revenues of €1.92bn in 2025, spearheaded by brand leader Zegna, the group now seems to be focusing on helping Thom Browne and Tom Ford to replicate some of the recent successes of their Italian stablemate. The 70-year-old Gildo, a keen skier and tennis player who personally tries on Zegna products before launch, is showing no sign of slowing down.
What's your outlook on the luxury fashion industry, which is becoming increasingly competitive?
I'm not worried because we have a great team. My two boys [Edoardo and Angelo, now co-CEOs of the Zegna label] are very creative and have a firm grasp of how the world is changing. And our new group CEO, Gianluca Tagliabue, is a smart fellow. He's very experienced and able to manage both the bad and the good with serenity. Zegna's artistic director, Alessandro Sartori , is unique too. He understands the process from sheep to shop. With this set-up, we have to learn to say "no" more.
What does that mean?
We need to have priorities. Our competitive advantage since the coronavirus pandemic has been in our focus and understanding of who our customers are. We have been raising the bar and picking projects that will impress them. Pouring our efforts into service, marketing and the final product has been very important. The challenge is to be consistent: it's relatively easy to put on a Villa Zegna event in Milan or in Oasi Zegna. But we want to achieve the same level of perfection overseas.
Does that mean you're planning more events around the world?
There's only one Lanificio Zegna [the house's wool mill] and there is only one Oasi Zegna – so the key is to start from the origin. But, yes, the plan is to organise at least two major events a year. In 2025 we had some in Milan but also in Dubai, where we did a fashion show and a Villa Zegna event. The world is big enough for us to do each one differently, respecting local cultures. That's the new mindset: think globally but act locally.
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