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Questions over the state of luxury fashion loomed large across the autumn/winter 2025 season. It's no secret that the industry has experienced a battering post-pandemic: according to The Business Of Fashion , excluding 2020, 2025 marks the first decline in luxury value creation for the first time since 2016 – with brands under increasing pressure to meet the bottom line, while still delivering exclusivity and cultural relevance. But fashion has never been afraid to shake things up in the face of adversity – and shake things up it did.
Quiet luxury may have slunk off the radar for autumn/winter 2025, but we saw the spirit of stealth wealth work its way into the staging of collections this season. In Paris, Loewe transformed an hôtel particulier with an exhibition-style display that celebrated Jonathan Anderson's immense impact on the brand, and allowed visitors to get up close and personal with his final collection. Elsewhere, for her Givenchy debut, Sarah Burton harked back to the brand's '50s origins with an intimate, salon-style show that reinterpreted the archive for a new generation. The Row has long been an arbiter of this stripped-back approach, with its exclusive, no-phone shows, but it seems as though the rest of the industry has clocked onto the fact that, when we have the world at our fingertips, sometimes less is more, and, more importantly, sometimes less is luxury.
It was quite the motley crew that joined signora Milanese on the runways this season, from Simone Rocha's headteacher-meets- Barbarella heroine to Dilara Findikoglu's dominatrix-tinged Venus de Milo, and Haider Ackermann's leather-clad Patrick Bateman at Tom Ford. All in all: a colourful and chaotic cast of characters that defy categorisation and, in many cases, fly in the face of "good taste". Fashion creatives may have their work cut out juggling artistic expression with the pressure of the C-suite, but this ragtag group suggests they're up to the task.
"Suited and booted" tailoring has come in a variety of guises over the decades: from Vetements', and subsequently Balenciaga's, XXL proportions to The Row's stripped-back, stealth wealth codes, in one form or another, it has remained a consistent success story in the contemporary womenswear market. For autumn/winter 2025? New silhouettes have emerged, like Sarah Burton for Givenchy's structured jackets and coats with nipped-in waistlines. "You can count on seeing her hourglass grey peacoat and hourglass black leather moto on the streets of Paris this time next year," Vogue Runway's Nicole Phelps predicted. Elsewhere at Tom Ford, Valentino and Victoria Beckham, it was a return to a more classic tailored fit – no frills, no gimmicks, just immaculately cut suiting that will look just as good in the boardroom as it does at the cocktail bar. Boom boom culture and corporate core might be trending, but you can rest assured that legitimately good tailoring will hold its own, even against the powerful tides of the trend cycle.
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